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Artworks

Ceremonial Skirt (tapis)
Abung
Two panels joined: cotton and silk, stripes of warp-faced, weft ribbed plain weave; warp-faced, weft ribbed plain weave with supplementary brocading wefts, and warp resist dyed (warp ikat) plain weave with supplementary brocading wefts; appliquéd with wool, plain weave; embroidered with silk, cotton, pineapple fiber, silver-leaf-over-lacquered-paper strip wrapped cotton and silver-leaf-over-lacquered-paper strip wrapped bast fiber (probably ramie) in buttonhole, double running, split, stem, straight and surface satin; laidwork and couching; embellished with metal-backed glass mirrors · 1801
Art Institute of Chicago

Shoulder or Head Cloth (selendang)
Minangkabau
Silk, cotton, and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, plain weave with supplementary patterning and brocading wefts, plied main warp fringe terminating in knotted silk, cut tassels · 1801
Art Institute of Chicago

Central Medallion Quilt with "Yankee Puzzle" or "Hour Glass" Borders
Mary Carpenter Jones
Center: cotton, plain weave; embroidered with silk, cotton, and wool in buttonhole, chain, cross, single cross, feather, Roumanian, satin, single satin, stem, and twined double running stitches.
Squares: cotton, cotton and linen, and linen, plain weaves; block, copperplate, and roller printed · 1795
Art Institute of Chicago

Emperor's Jifu (Semiformal Court Robe)
Manchu
Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, slit tapestry weave with interlaced outlining wefts; embroidered with silk in satin and stem stitches; painted details; sleeves: bands of silk, plain weave and of silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, plain weave; edging and closures: silk, cotton, and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton, satin weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts; lined with silk, satin damask weave; sleeves lined with cotton, plain weave; metal buttons · 1790
Art Institute of Chicago

Vestment (For a First-degree Taoist Priest)
Han-Chinese
Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk, cotton, gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton, gilt-metal-strip-wrapped cotton, and gold-leaf-over-lacquered paper in satin stitches; laid work and couching; edged with silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; lined with silk, 4:1 satin damask weave · 1775
Art Institute of Chicago