Artworks

Han-Chinese

Silk and cotton, plain weaves and silk, plain weave self-patterned by ground weft floats; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton in chain, eyelet, and satin stitches; laid work and couching; collar and edge trim: silk, warp-float faced 4:1 and 6:1 satin weaves; lined with ramie, plain weave · 1850

Han-Chinese

Silk, warp-float faced 3:1 'Z' twill weaves self-patterned by areas of plain weave; pieced; medallions with under drawing in black pigment and trimmed with cords of gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk couched with silk; neck facing: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered in satin, single satin, and stem stitches; trimmed with braid of silk, 2:2 oblique interlacing and with ribbon of silk and cotton, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave with supplementary patterning warps and self-patterned by main warp floats; ties: silk, warp-float faced 3:1 'Z' twill weave self-patterned by areas of plain weave; lined with silk, plain weave · 1850

Augustus Welby Northmore Pugin

Linen, plain weave; appliquéd with medallion of silk, satin weave; appliquéd with padded linen, plain weave; embroidered with wool, silk, cotton and silk- wrapped cotton and silk and cotton tubular braided cord in satin, single satin, split, and stem stitches; laidwork and couching; glass eye and appliquéd with silk, plain weave with supplementary pile warps forming cut solid velvet; embroidered with silk and silk-wrapped cotton in paper padded satin stitches; couching · 1841

Augustus Welby Northmore Pugin

Linen, plain weave; appliquéd with medallion of silk, satin weave; appliquéd with padded linen, plain weave; embroidered with wool, silk, cotton and silk- wrapped cotton and silk and cotton tubular braided cord in satin, single satin, split, and stem stitches; laidwork and couching; glass eye and appliquéd with silk, plain weave with supplementary pile warps forming cut solid velvet; embroidered with silk and silk-wrapped cotton in paper padded satin stitches; couching · 1841

Gundry & Sons

Leather and silk, satin weave · 1840

Manchu

Silk, warp-float faced 2:1 'S' twill weave; embroidered with silk, gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, and gilt- and silvered-metal-strip-wrapped silk in knot, satin, and stem stitches; laid work and couching; sleeves: silk, weft-float faced 1:5 and warp-float faced 2:1 twill damask weave; edging and closures: silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, warp-float faced 5:1 satin weave with weft-float faced 1:2 'Z' twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts; lined with silk, plain weave; metal buttons · 1840

Manchu

Silk and gold-leafed-paper-strip-wrapped silk, slit tapestry weave; embroidered in padded satin and stem stitches; painted; edged with silk and gold-leaf-paper-strip-wrapped silk in warp-float faced satin weave with weft-float faced twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts; metal buttons · 1840

Gertrude Rapp

Silk, satin weave with supplementary patterning warps and pile warps forming cut voided velvet · 1838

Ruth Hart

Silk, stripes of warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave, warp-float faced 7:1 warp chevron twill weave and plain weave; pieced; stars: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 and 4:1 satin and plain weaves; some self-patterned by complementary ground wefts or by warp and weft floats; some in stripe of both weaves with supplementary patterning warps; some with impressed patterning; some warp ikat dyed; some printed; and silk and cotton, plain weave self-patterned by weft floats; pieced; quilted with silk threads; edged with ribbon of silk, stripes of warp-float facd 4:1 satin weave and plain weave with extended weft loops; backing: cotton, plain weave; glazed; batting: cotton · 1835

Gertrude Rapp

Silk, warp-float faced satin weave with supplementary patterning warps and self-patterned by ground weft floats and areas of plain weve; woven on loom with Jacquard attachment · 1830

Mary R. Glenn

Silk, satin weave; embroidered with silk and silk chenille yarns in satin, single satin, split, and stem stitches; couching; painted; lined and edged with linen, plain weave · 1827

Manchu

Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk in knot, satin, and stem stitches; laid work and couching; lined with silk, plain weave · 1825

Manchu

Silk, slit tapestry weave; painted details; upper sleeves: silk, satin weave self-patterned by areas of twill weave; lower sleeves: silk, twill weave; impressed ribs · 1825

Manchu

Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk in knot, satin, and stem stitches; laid work and couching; lined with silk, plain weave · 1825

Manchu

Silk, slit tapestry weave; painted details; upper sleeves: silk, satin weave self-patterned by areas of twill weave; lower sleeves: silk, twill weave; impressed ribs · 1825

Han-Chinese

Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered in knot, satin, and stem stitches; sleeve bands: silk, plain weave self-patterned by ground weft floats and areas of 1:1 gauze crossings; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk in knot, satin, and split stitches; laid work and couching; edged with silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave with supplementary patterning wefts bound by secondary binding warps and self-patterned by ground weft floats; ribbon: silk and silver-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton, plain weave with supplementary patterning warps; trim, closures, and ties: silk, warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave; lined with silk, 3:1 twill damask weave; sleeve inner lining: cotton, plain weave · 1820

H. Brunet et Cie.

Silk, warp-float faced satin weave; copperplate printed · 1820

Pierre Antoine Mongin

Silk, warp-float faced satin weave; embroidered with silk and chenille yarns in chain and satin stitches; couching; surface pigment added to embroidered stitches · 1801

Han-Chinese

Silk, warp-float faced 3:1 'S' twill weave self-patterned by areas of plain weave; edge bands and center back: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk, gold-leaf-over-lacquered paper, and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk in satin and knot stitches; laid work and couching; inner collar and closures: silk, weft-float faced 1:7 satin weave; collar patches: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; lined with ramie, plain weave; lining fragments: silk, warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave · 1801

Claude Bonnefond

Silk, warp float-faced 10:1 satin weave self-patterned by main warp and ground weft floats and by areas of twill weaves; woven on loom with Jacquard attachment · 1801

Tassinari et Chatel

Silk and cotton, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave with weft-float faced 1:3 'Z' twill interlacings of secondary binding warps, supplementary patterning wefts and self-patterning ground weft · 1801

Manchu

Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk in satin, single satin and stem stitches; Chinese knots and couching; padded; inner tape: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave with supplementary patterning wefts; edged with silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; lined with silk, plain weave; button loops: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; metal buttons · 1800

Manchu

Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; appliquéd with silk, warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave over paper and over gold leaf on lacquered paper; two panels joined; edged with four-strand warp twining; lined with silk, 4:1 satin damask weave · 1800

Han-Chinese

Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk in knot, single satin, and satin stitches; laid work and couching; sleeve bands: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton in herringbone, knot, single satin, satin, and stem stitches; laid work and couching; ribbons: silk and gold- and silver-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave self-patterned by main warp floats; trimmed with silk, warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave; lined with silk, plain weave · 1800