Artworks · Han-Chinese

Vestment (For a Second-degree Taoist Priest)

1801 · Silk, warp-float faced 3:1 'S' twill weave self-patterned by areas of plain weave; edge bands and center back: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk, gold-leaf-over-lacquered paper, and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk in satin and knot stitches; laid work and couching; inner collar and closures: silk, weft-float faced 1:7 satin weave; collar patches: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; lined with ramie, plain weave; lining fragments: silk, warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave

143.5 × 189.5 cm (56 1/2 × 74 5/8 in.); Repeat: 36.8 × 7.3 cm (14 1/2 × 2 7/8 in.)

Art Institute of Chicago

Sleeve band

1801 · Couched and embroidered sleeve-bands from a robe, cut and framed as a three-panel folding desk screen. Two lower halves joined to form central frame, top halves form panels at either side. Figures and auspicious symbols in colors and gold on ivory silk grou nd.

30 × 14.8 cm (11 3/4 × 5 7/8 in.)

Art Institute of Chicago

Sleeve band

1801 · Couched and embroidered sleeve-bands from a robe, cut and framed as a three-panel folding desk screen. Two lower halves joined to form central frame, top halves form panels at either side. Figures and auspicious symbols in colors and gold on ivory silk grou nd.

30.1 × 14.9 cm (11 7/8 × 5 7/8 in.)

Art Institute of Chicago

Woman's Ao (Short Robe)

1800 · Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk in knot, single satin, and satin stitches; laid work and couching; sleeve bands: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton in herringbone, knot, single satin, satin, and stem stitches; laid work and couching; ribbons: silk and gold- and silver-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave self-patterned by main warp floats; trimmed with silk, warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave; lined with silk, plain weave

107.3 × 138.2 cm (42 1/4 × 54 3/8 in.)

Art Institute of Chicago

Vestment (For a First-degree Taoist Priest)

1775 · Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk, cotton, gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton, gilt-metal-strip-wrapped cotton, and gold-leaf-over-lacquered paper in satin stitches; laid work and couching; edged with silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; lined with silk, 4:1 satin damask weave

141.2 × 198.4 cm (55 5/8 × 78 1/8 in.)

Art Institute of Chicago

Jiasha (Mantle)

1700 · Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, slit tapestry weave with interlaced outlining wefts; pieced; painted details; edged with silk, warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave; lined with silk, plain weave

152.3 × 283.3 cm (60 × 111 1/2 in.); At edge: H.: 116.9 cm (46 in.)

Art Institute of Chicago

Vestment for a First-Degree Taoist Priest

1700 · Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk, peacock-feather-wrapped silk, gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, and gold-leaf-over-lacquered paper in surface satin stitches; laid work and couching; appliquéd with forms of silk, plain weaves between two layers of paper, some with gold- and silver-leaf-over-lacquered paper, and embroidered with silk in chain and knot stitches, needle looping with laid thread and darned bars, and silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, laid work and couching; edged with cotton, plain weave; lined with ramie, plain weave; metal button

139.6 × 156.2 cm (55 × 61 1/2 in.)

Art Institute of Chicago

Jiasha (Mantle)

1650 · Silk, gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, and peacock feathers, slit tapestry weave with interlaced outlining; silk, 1:1 plain oblique interlaced tapes; lined with silk, warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave

134.9 × 267.3 cm (53 1/8 × 105 1/4 in.); At edge: H.: 109.2 cm (43 1/8 in.)

Art Institute of Chicago